Checklist:

* Replace spinner (can't keep the center bolt style on the plane)

* Better attachment of the air scoop.

* Change out the rear center canopy rail for something more substantial.

* Rudder repair (the top of the rudder broke at a weak spot around the top hinge.

First up is the spinner.

I was flying a 6" miracle spinner; the problem is the back plate is just too thin and the tip of the spinner is bulky and heavy.  I kept shearing the bolt that holds the spinner on, then resorted to gluing it on.  I picked up a 6" Ziroli quite a few months ago in anticipation of replacement.  My initial fear is the Ziroli is going to be heavy and throw off my balance.  Especially since I have to move the engine 5/16" further out from the firewall.  Turns out the Ziroli spinner only weights 1oz more than the Miracle spinner does.  Plus all the weight of the Ziroli is in the backplate instead of an extra 6 inches out in front.  So I think the weight movement will be a wash and if anything will be to the nose and not the tail.

I built up the firewall with some 1/4" aircraft ply and a couple extra washers to get the proper fit.  Turned out really nice.  I now have the spinner notched, drilled, taped, etc.  On to the finishing where I have it primed, and the base yellow coat on.  Next up will be the black stripes and then the clear coat.

Miracle on the left and Ziroli on the right.

 

Looking good Ryan.

Yea, so far I really like these spinners but you do have to take your time with all the drilling, tapping, cutting and measuring.  But well worth the time to get it right.

The arrows are pointing to the holes that are being worn in the brass rails by the rear canopy mount bolt.  The top rail in the photo failed when the hole became big enough for the canopy to pop our.  Luckily I didn't loose the canopy but the landing looked cool with the canopy open .

So to upgrade I am replacing the rail with stainless steel.  I will be using stainless for any canopy rails going forward.  My recently finished P-40 uses stainless for all of it's rails.

Here the rail is installed and painted.  You can see the internal shuttle is in the beyond fully open position at an opening in the rail.  This is for removal and install of the canopy.

The driving mechanism for the canopy is a super torque servo with a sail arm servo horn pushing and pulling the nyrod driving the shuttle in the canopy rail.  The nyrod has a stiff but flexible metal wire inserted in it for strength.  The weakest point on this setup is at the joint that I have supported by a piece of aluminum tubing. I can't have any bending here or this will not work.  For those familiar with my P-40 build, I like that setup for the canopy a lot better.  This long servo arm here puts a lot of pressure on the servo.

Slip a plastic sleeve over the bolt. A yellow Nyrod comes to mind but it might be too big of a Dia. 

Sparky