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Poll Question : What type of paint do you prefer to use?
Poll Choice Votes Poll Statistics
78 [ 12.89% ]
76 [ 12.56% ]
127 [ 20.99% ]
147 [ 24.30% ]
133 [ 21.98% ]
44 [ 7.27% ]
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Avatar User Offline sevarg
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Posted: November/23/2006 at 9:17am  Quote
 

"Is Chevron Perfect paint still available?

It was discontinued a couple of years ago.



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Avatar User Offline Steve_O
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Posted: November/23/2006 at 9:21am  Quote
 
Was afraid that was the case. It seems that all the good paints from the past are no longer available. I was a K&B user and have not been 100% satisfied since they stopped producing their product.
 
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Avatar User Offline DO'C
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Posted: December/31/2006 at 12:16pm  Quote
 

I too was a Chevron paint user, and have been frustrated trying other paints. I have setteled on Home Depot- "Behr Premium Plus" Latex. I can match any color, and it's easy to use. I beleive it will be around for more than just a few years!

The "Jungle Trail" color is a perfect match for Interior Green.

The "Sandwashed Driftwood" is a match for OD.

The Ralph Loren "lancaster Blue" is a perfect match for Intermediate Blue.  

I use Testors Model master paints and make a calling card sized sample, then it can be matched using there color scanner.

 



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Avatar User Offline chookman
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Posted: November/20/2009 at 4:47am  Quote
 
WAR BIRD COLOURS are the most realistic paint around........you have to try them

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Avatar User Offline cgav8r
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Posted: November/20/2009 at 7:50am  Quote
 

I use Behr latex with Nelson hobbies water based poly as a clear coat. Nelson also sells a additive that makes it glow fuel proof up to 10 or 20 percent nitro. I use a laquer based high fill sandable car primer for my priming needs.

Aaron D.

 


 
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Avatar User Offline p51p47
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Posted: November/23/2009 at 6:51pm  Quote
 
I use a mixture of Warbirdcolors (easy to spray, quick drying, good colour selection & accuracy and easy clean up) and automotive solvent based acrylics (good covering power, easy to spray....but STINKS and isn't easy to find anymore) for my top coat colour.......clear coats is either WBC satin or Klass Kote epoxy. For primer, (being as I get through so much of it), I still use automotive cellulose (though it's now very difficult to source now in the UK)

Phil

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Avatar User Offline john62544
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Posted: September/23/2011 at 2:48pm  Quote
 

Hi All

    I'm an old silk and dope user. I use Randolph's Nitrate Tautening dope for the first 6 to 8 coats. I then switch to the Randolph's Butyrate dope for the colors. Depending on weather I want a flat finish or a super high gloss finish, I will use Randolph's flattening agent for flat or something in between. If I want a super High Gloss finish after the Butyrate is applied, I use PPG Concept 2002 clear Polyurathane and the plane looks as if it was dipped in plastic. This Polyurathane is VERY expensive, By the time you buy the gallon of clear, hardener and reducer, it comes close to $300.00 per gallon. It lasts almost forever and there is enough to do at least 15 planes if you mix it the right way, it's also very toxic, you must use a MSA mask and have a spray booth to get rid of the vapors, there have been many cases of people dying from exposure to this without the proper mask.

    The other way to get a nice gloss finish is to use Randolph's clear Butyrate tautening dope with some retarder in it, about three coats. The Nitrate can be brushed on, the rest has to be sprayed on.

    One thing to remember is this, You can put Butyrate over Nitrate dope, HOWEVER, NEVER NITRATE OVER BUTYRATE.

    Have a great day All

    John Eberle

    Montgomery, TX


 
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Avatar User Offline ARUP
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Posted: November/11/2011 at 11:23am  Quote
 
I like dope!
 
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